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Or was it still a mirage??
I have just returned back from Dubai and am undergoing the mental process of editing and melding those wonderful experiences into a coherent narrative. A vista of spectacular visions unfolds before me and I find it difficult to express them in words. My concern is that one should not mistake that I am applying plentiful varnish to the few facts and indulging in meaningless exaggerations. However, I feel glad that I have gained knowledge of the Middle East wonders within a short span of three days.On the 24th December afternoon, we started by ONTC bus to Dubai, nearly 600 km away from Muscat. The distance was covered in nearly 5 hours. The terrain en route changes from a rocky one to a plain desert. First, the roads were lined on both sides with lush green palm and neem trees and well laid-out bushes, cut into various forms. Gradually, huge sand dunes loomed into view. Mountains were left far behind and we seemed to be far away from the lush green oasis that was Oman. Since Dubai is a free-trading zone, there was no checking of luggage on the border when we entered Dubai. Only our road permits were perused and stamped. As the bus moved on, we could see small little shops arrayed on both sides of the highway on the outskirts of the main city of Dubai offering rich, luxurious Persian rugs and pots and other antiques. Once we were inside the city, we were driven to the hotel Vasantham, where we had already arranged for our stay. The desert, sea and the avid mountains are the mainstay of Bedouins, the old residents of Dubai. They erected tents in the Oasis, found in the deserts and reared camels, goats and ate fish, and drank goat’s and camel’s milk. On moonlight nights, they sat in their tents and also outside. They sang songs and danced through the nights, under candle’s fire. They also exchanged pearls and other spices with Iranians and other foreigners in return for foodstuff. Over the years they became efficient traders. Oil encompasses only 6% Of the Dubai’s exports. Aluminum is the main non-oil export. Horse race and camel race were very popular and to this day they are continued. Dubai has become a city of merchants, and a leading business and tourism haven of the Middle East. It is the second largest among the Emirates including Abu Dhabi, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al Quwain, Fujeira and Ras Al Khaima. Click here for a map of the United Arab Emirates. Dubai city’s architecture is very different from Muscat’s. It is a distinctive blend of modern city and timeless desert, east and west, old and new. An exotic destination with a cosmopolitan lifestyle, Dubai combines the comfort and convenience of the western world with the unique charm and hospitality of Arabia. If you are looking for an action-packed holiday, Dubai offers superb facilities for sports and recreation, from Golf and water sports to Desert safaris and Dhow cruises; or simply the opportunity to relax and enjoy year-round sunshine on its clean, uncrowded beaches. It is mainly a shopper’s paradise. Everything from Gold Jewellery to Video Cameras is available at extremely competitive prices. From ancient Souks (old markets) to luxurious shopping Malls, the visitor can count on bargain galore. Even though Dubai’s culture is truly Islamic, the local people show a high degree of tolerance for different lifestyles. Dubai’s streets remind me of Bombay with its lanes and by lanes with both sides having shopping malls. The climate of Dubai is more extreme than that of Muscat, in the sense; it is cooler in winter and hottest in summer, ranging from 150F to 600F. Most of the countries in the world, including USA, UK, France, Germany, Italy, Russia, Africa, Japan, and Australia etc. have established their overseas offices here. Since time was running out, and we had to cover the trip in a short period of 3 days, after a night’s rest, we had a breakfast in the restaurant within the hotel of our stay itself. After that, we hired a 4x4 vehicle and proceeded to have a tour of Dubai city. We also hired a guide, who was well versed in the various sites that Dubai has to offer. He was fluent in English with an Anglican accent. We started with a tour of the magnificent Royal Palace in Zabeel. Even though it is only the former residence of the Royal family, the lawns are well maintained and photography is still banned. We found in the gardens, a plethora of beautiful birds, including a peacock with brilliant plumage, and other fascinating birds. After this, we were driven to the Camel and horse racing tracks. It could have been a truly enthralling Arabian experience, but unfortunately, it was closed for the day. However, we could snap a few close-range photographs of these animals. Then, we were driven to the Burj-Al-Arab (in literal translation, it means Icon of Arabia). It is the costliest hotel in the world, costing around 1 billion Dirhams to construct. It is located on an artificial island and is the hotel in which rulers, diplomats and other VIPs stay during their visits to Dubai. Its construction is entirely modern, with gold enameling in many places. It is said that 30 tons of gold were used in the construction. Even to enter the hotel, they charge 100 dirham per head. Then, we had a drive along the Jumeira beach and had a break at the Jumeira mosque. This is the only mosque in the gulf, where non-muslims are allowed to enter on special days. We also saw the second tallest flag-pole in the world, carrying the UAE flag. Then, we continued to the Bastakia, the old town of Dubai. The earliest form of air conditioning, the wind tower, which was used to cool homes in the gulf, can still be seen in the Bastakia area, to the east of Al Fahidi fort, where many traditional courtyard houses can still be found. In Bastakia, we visited the Dubai Museum. Al Fahidi fort, built in the last century, has been renovated in 1970 to house a museum where 4000 yr old archeological finds and dioramas of traditional life are among the many displays. The museum clearly depicts the various eras of development of Dubai city. We also had a stop at the Majlis Art Gallery. Then, we proceeded to the waters of the Dubai Creek. We crossed the Dubai Creek, a natural inlet from the Gulf, bisecting Dubai into Deira and Bur Dubai, in a wooden dhow (called Abra or water Taxi.) Both sides offer a fascinating panorama of high-rise buildings. Fast moving motor boats cruise into the gulf carrying Dubai’s spices to far-off Iran, Pakistan and Bombay and bring back merchandise. We saw several crates and bundles ready to be carried into the city by means of trucks. Since Dubai is an open port with low import duties and no taxation, it offers the bargainer ample opportunity to purchase articles at a price which is often lower than at the place of their origin. On the Deira side, we visited the Spice, Gold and electronics souqs. The narrow lanes of the spice souq are redolent with cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, incense, dried fruits and nuts. Imported from all over the Middle East, they are sold straight out of open sacks that surround the shopkeepers. Dubai boasts one of the largest retail gold markets in the world (colloquially known as the Gold Souq), selling everything from ingots to intricately worked jewellery at bargain prices. The street-front stores hide alleys of smaller shops with glittering show windows. Al Fahidi Street lies at the heart of Bur Dubai souq. Its many shops are packed with the latest in electronics, video, audio, TV systems, home appliances and photographic equipment, which are all sold at very competitive prices. Then, we were dropped at our hotel. After our lunch at Saravana Bhavan, and after a little nap, we proceeded to Bur Dubai market for shopping a few articles of the household, such as a few VCDs, A/V cables, garments, gift articles and a VCD/Mp3/CD/CD-R player for me. We then set out on the cultural tour. Sharjah is famed as the cultural capital of the Emirates. We visited the Duar Al Kitaab (or Book Roundabout); it was the centre of sharjah city where the holy Qoran was once kept. But, now a mere replica of the book is kept there. Adjacent to this place, we also snapped photographs of the Majlis, The ancient religious library and the Sharjah central mosque. After that, we went to the Al Hisn museum, located on the Al Hisn square, about 1 km away from the city centre visited by us previously. The exhibition includes photos of the forts and castles in the UAE and also a video showing the fort before, during and after restoration. Then we proceeded to visit the Bait Al Nabooda, which offered an insight into the life-style of ancient residents of Sharjah. We then went to the Al Arsa Souq, where vendors sell silver jewellery, Indian handicrafts, daggers, gulf pearls and various antiques, and also luxurious and original Persian carpets. The tour came to a close with a visit to the Blue Souq, where the above goods were also sold. Noteworthy of mention is the fact that these buildings maintain their Arabic ambience, which is different from the Occidental, modernized structures of Dubai city. We returned to our hotel, to take our dinner at Hind restaurant, and we were visited by Sundararaman, an old-time friend of Shrikanth, who invited us to his house. The next day, we got up late and had another round of shopping at Bur-Dubai itself. We mainly visited the Meena Bazaar, where textiles, fancy garments for ladies can be purchased at a very low price. After depositing the articles purchased, in the hotel, we set out on a visit to Mr. Bala’s, a friend or Mr. Vasudevan, where we had our lunch. Mr.Bala then took us in his Prado car to the city centre, where the ground floor itself is reserved for taxis only, which keep coming and going continuously, dropping and taking shoppers to their destinations. First and second floors are reserved especially for parking the cars of the visitors. (So you can imagine how big the whole building is…) Inside the city centre, we did a little of window shopping, and then visited the Carrefour, another Hypermarket. It was very huge, and had everything under the sky. City-Centre also housed a food court, where one could taste all types of cuisines to arouse one’s gastronomic delight. The center of City-Centre had a huge Christmas tree decorated profusely with small lamps. We then went to Lamcy plaza (owned by an Indian). On the ground floor of the Lamcy plaza, we witnessed a show where two huge, remote-controlled Robots were dancing to the tunes of music. The shops on the 1st floor exhibited ladies garments, watches, jewellery and cosmetics. The 2nd floor displayed the same items for men. The 3rd floor was meant for children. It housed a variety of toys, eatables, stationary and gift items. On the 4th and the last floor, the lamcy hypermarket was found. Then, we were dropped at our hotel. On the final day, we got up and started packing, as were leaving for Muscat the same afternoon. At 9 ’o clock, we were met by Mr.Bala at the reception area. He took us to the Lulu Hypermarket, located in Al Ghussais, next to the Al Ahli football stadium. This chain of hypermarkets is owned by Mammooty’s mamanaar. Almost all the shops in the several floors displayed goods from jewllery to watches, video games toys and other household items. Fancy readymade garments were there, from Bermudas, jeans, shirts, to churidars etc. The sales people are very courteous and ready to help us where we need them. Expatriates and foreigners alike throng such supermarkets. We have to shrub our shoulders with each other and move our trolleys filled with articles without gazing this side or that side making a jam almost. Tens of thousands of Dirhams change hands. Nobody indulges in shop lifting, and close-circuit cameras, and the watchful eyes of the floor assistants prevent such things from happening. It would take several days for window shopping in such malls. Prices are fixed as they sell only branded goods. Only in the small shops branded & contra-branded varieties are available, and we have to bargain with the help of local expatriate friends for any purchase. All people are on a spending spree. They, I presume, care for today’s breakfast and not for tomorrow’s lunch. Free trade and global markets encourage import of goods and consumerism is encouraged. I forgot to mention about the plenty of eateries. We stayed in Hotel Vasantham. Hotel Saravana Bhavan, Hind restaurant (an Udupi Hotel), and you may not believe that we saw a hotel named “Simran’s Aaappa kadai”, serving vegetarian varieties. Of all the things, what perplexed me was one aspect which I found there. No beggar is to be found anywhere. No stretched arms for alms. In India there is a large gap between the rich and the poor. The rich keep getting richer and the poor are still downtrodden. Huts and high-rise apartments are there side by side. This makes me to go around world to see the lifestyles of people. The more I think, the more I am saddened. And this is the thought for the day. S. Narasimhan
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